Italy has long held a certain allure for intrepid travellers throughout the ages, and what better way to experience all this wonderful slice of the world can offer, than a two-week sojourn up the length of ‘‘il stivale’’ (the boot). From craggy coastal coves and glistening seaside scenery, to majestic soaring mountains and sun-dappled country roads, we bring you the ultimate must-do road trip the next time you’re in Italia…
FILICUDI
The second smallest of the Aeolian islands is nestled to the north of Sicily, just off the tip of the “toe” of Italy’s boot. Dominated by the spectacular Mount Fossa, Filicudi is a quiet paradise – think unspoiled natural wildness, crystal clear waters, volcanic landscapes and the most tranquil sunsets over a sea that tells you a thousand stories you’ve never heard. There are just a few hotels and a few restaurants on the island, run by local families and still just the epitome of seasonal and very local cooking. After lunch, just sit on ‘‘il muretto’’ (the wall along the street) and watch life go by while chatting about anything and nothing.
NAPLES
Catch a ferry from Filicudi to Santa Marina Salina on the nearby island of Salina (or get off and go shopping there for the locally hand-painted plates first!) and then the ferry straight up to Naples. You’ll need to set aside a day to travel this stretch, as it takes around 12 hours to make the trip across the Tyrrhenian Sea. You’ll be well rewarded once you reach the buzz of Naples, Italy’s third largest city (after Rome and Milan) and a melting pot of old-world charm and history. Well-known for its epicurean delights – no diet here – this is Italian gourmet at its very best. Naples is also home to two royal palaces and seven castles, not to mention some of the most spectacular centuries-old Christian frescoes.
POMPEII, ERCOLANO AND MOUNT VESUVIUS
Head south from Naples to the breath-taking Mount Vesuvius – the famed volcano known for the destruction of Pompeii in AD79. There is a hiking trail to the top of the mountain, so you can peak into the crater of what is still an active volcano. Meanwhile, the remains of Pompeii itself – once a flourishing ancient Roman city before the eruption that decimated it – are perfectly preserved by the ash from that fateful flow. The city walls and several city gates have been excavated, along with an amphitheatre, with many uncovered artefacts exhibited in the Pompeii Antiquarium, located amongst the city’s ruins. If you have time for Ercolano, it’s almost more interesting than Pompeii, and we will leave this for you to discover, but highly recommend it.
CAPRI
From Pompeii, you can take the train back to Naples, and sail over to Capri towards sunset – the only time of day to travel to this romantic island. The Capri Palace in Anacapri is one of the many places to stay, being the most authentic space, atop the island, and away from the madding crowds. From here, take time to visit Villa San Michele, the former home of famed physician Axel Munthe. With its incredible statues, beautiful garden and even a 3,200-year-old red granite Egyptian sphinx watching over the sea below, be sure to arrive as soon as the Villa opens to avoid the hordes trekking up the hill from downtown Capri.
From here, walk down the age-old paths and hundreds of steps to reach La Fontelina, a beach club and restaurant built on the rocks of Capri which once, in 1949 when it first opened as a shack, was only known to the seagulls. The position is totally unchanged of course, and the menu comes straight from the sea, as it were. Soak up the summer sun considering the Faraglioni, eat the day’s freshly caught fish in the shade of a pergola, and complete the experience with a dip in the clear blue seas to again hear the stories of bygone times, and look back at the turquoise brollies which sit like clams on the rocks.
FLORENCE
Head on north onto Florence, the cradle of the Renaissance era of art and architecture and importantly, the capital of Tuscany. Florence is famous for many historical features – from Michelangelo’s David and the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, to the Ponte Vecchio and Boboli Gardens, the Bargello, the Uffizi and, and, and – but for a truly one-of-a-kind experience, stay at the eclectic AdAstra boutique hotel and continue the experience of their style and art by meeting the hotel co-owner, designer and calligrapher Betty Soldi, in her very own rose-framed studio. The bespoke by-appointment-only “inksperiences” offered will have you creating incredible calligraphy with roses dipped into ink. Her bespoke hands-on written-word workshops flow with the magic of the city from the setting of her Design Studio within a uniquely magical private garden – her creative thinking is an essential part of Florence.
THE DOLOMITES
Finish your journey in the scenic Dolomites, at the top of the ‘‘stivale’’ in the north west of Italy, in the largest ski, sporting and walking resort in the Ampezzo Valley. A stay at the Grand Hotel Savoia Cortina, in Cortina d’Ampezzo, will once again bring back the stories of this elegant town. The hotel, which has seen a chic interior re-design just a few years back, counts a 5-star rating, boasting the most spectacular panoramic views of the mountains from the heart of the village. If you get here for winter after a day on the very same slopes that hosted the 2022 Alpine World Ski Championships, dining comes as a great welcome at the Ristorante Savoy. A local cuisine, the style still remains Mediterranean in its inspiration, which you will have enjoyed en-route since Filicudi, and Chef’s dishes are enhanced by aromatic herbs, with each dish fundamentally based on sustainable local produce.
Before leaving after the ‘‘quindicina’’ tour (the two-week tour) rejuvenate in the hotel’s spa – a blissful sanctuary in which to unwind, and consider the stops along the way. They will offer a range of deeply nourishing bespoke treatments, using naturally and sustainably sourced ingredients from their exclusive partner, Comfort Zone.
If you get the map of Italy out, over coffee the next morning, you might just be inspired to head to Venice after all you have absorbed at the hotel. It is just a few hours away, and they can arrange studio workshop visits, and private encounters, with the world’s most exquisite artisans; one of which is Bevilacqua, where Giulia Bevilacqua, daughter of the founding family, crafts her forward-thinking designs from the precious velours which come from their 18th century looms. History, and geography, in action…