WHERE TO STAY

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Marrakech is certainly a busy place, located in the foothills of the majestic Atlas mountains whose snow capped peaks are a contrast to the activity taking place in the buzzing pink city below.  The famous Djemaa el F’na square with its water sellers, monkeys, snake charmers and, for the unwary the tooth pullers, is the place to draw the crowds, and surrounding this are Marrakech‘s famous souks where visitors can spend hours bargaining for anything from carpets to rose water and the very useful amber blocks which are the best thing to get rid of moths.  But where to stay?  The Es Saadi Gardens & Resort is only 10 minutes from the airport in the upscale Hivernage neighborhood.  The hotel is found in the Golden Triangle and this palace hotel is built among 20 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens surrounded by the Atlas mountains but only a short stroll from the bustling souks.  This is the perfect oasis to escape the crowds whilst being in the heart of the city and right in the action.  The Es Saadi Gardens & Resort has the largest pool in the city and if you want to spoil yourself utterly take one of the 10 private villas built in the landscaped gardens, each with their own pool and individually designed.  

WHERE TO EAT

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The food at The Es Saadi is fantastic, they have their own farm just outside the city which grows organic produce and nothing served in their six restaurants comes from more than 20k from the city.  Outside the hotel a visit to the Majorelle Gardens is a must, YSL‘s former house and gardens are now open to the public and his famous ‘Majorelle Blue’ walls are a stunning contrast to the beautifully designed gardens.  A pit stop at the outdoor cafe is a delight, the menu is not extensive but just what you need after a mornings shopping.  We dined at Villa la Canaille which is near to the hotel and serves classic French food in a chic modern setting which was great fun. 

The Es Saadi is home to the oldest casino in North Africa so a great night out is to have dinner at the famous L’Épicurien at the casino which serves amazing food either inside or on the terrace, and after dinner there is a great cabaret at the restaurant, the atmosphere is not dissimilar to Ronnie Scotts in London. You can then try your hand at the many games happening at the casino and then later on there is the most brilliant show at TeatrO, the nightclub once graced by Josephine Baker which now plays host to DJ’s from around the world so you can boogy until the early hours. This is the night spot in the city. 

FOR THE BODY 

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If tooth pulling is not you thing you can experience scents and smells in the souk and some of the more upmarket herbalist shops have treatments ranging from acne cures to depression, rheumatism and arthritis. They will provide a shoulder massage but be wary as the cost of this seems to be included in your purchases but in reality the ladies who do the massage need paying under the counter so I suggest that you play it safe and return to the Es Saadi and their award winning SPA. This 3000 sam spa has a Dior Institut, the only one in the world outside of Paris. The SPA is built around a 200 year old eucalyptus tree and has a traditional Moroccan hammams which be taken privately for groups or individual. Here you can indulge in The Oriental Thermae®. A surprising and sensuous new detoxifying programme has been created with treatments alternating between hot and cold to rejuvenate tired and stressed bodies. There are also treatments from India and Japan as well as traditional Moroccan therapies so something for everyone.  Overall the spa has 24 treatment rooms spread over three floors and has been designed as a space where sky, earth, water, and the clear Marrakech light all come together to create a harmonious retreat. 

SHOPPING

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No visit to Marrakech is complete without a trip the souk in the Medina.  It is a given that it’s not for everybody but if you know what is tat and what is a bargain as well as a yearning to haggle then this experience should not be missed. You need to open your mind to the sights and smells and gird your loins for some proper shopping which, if you are clever, will leave you feeling that you have done a good deal as well as leaving the vendor thinking he hasn’t done too badly either – everyone happy.  Most of the vendors are very friendly and at one shoe makers they let my friend Ben sit and work the leather soles on an ancient wooden contraption, he was delighted.  Do keep in mind that this is a Muslim country and be respectful in your dress, no bear arms and legs and also about photography, it’s good manners to ask and don’t take pictures during prayers. If your sights are higher than the souk then head for the shops by the Majorelle Gardens which sell some more upmarket items including clothes and local crafts, but if you really want to splash out then go straight to the boutique inside the gardens where you can buy beautiful handmade slippers, scarves and jackets as well as plates, glasses – all very tasteful, YSL would be proud.

NOT TO MISS

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It is well worth getting up before dawn to be driven to the outskirts of the city to take a hot air balloon ride.  You take off at sunrise and glide over the landscape with the birds looking down on Berber camps and the Atlas mountains surrounding you, then on landing there is a traditional Moroccan breakfast to be had, Berber style in tents.  This is a really great experience so I do encourage you to do it.  The photographic museum in the Medina is another great experience with incredible images of times gone by as well as contemporary exhibitions.  There is a charming rooftop restaurant where you can have traditional food and look over the pink roof tops.  A visit to The Berber Museum in the Ourika Valley is a lovely thing to do, at 37 kms from the city in the foothills of the Ourika Valley this museum is in a restored Berber village and has exhibits of photographs, pottery, carpets and jewellery.  You can take a guide who will take you on a tour of the valley and climb past waterfalls to sit on a platform drinking fresh orange juice and enjoy the panoramic views, then take a traditional tagine lunch over looking the river on jewelled coloured sofas, tables and chairs placed down the banks.  All of these things and more can be arranged by the brilliant concierge at The Es Saadi Gardens & Resort so ask his advice and you won’t be disappointed.

GETTING THERE

British Airways, Royal Air Maroc and EasyJet fly direct from London airports

CONTACT

www.essaadi.com

Phone:+212 5243-37400